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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.